Vegan leather is no longer confined to vegan-centric brands: it’s everywhere. But what is vegan leather? Whether a pair of black pleather pants or a fiery red synthetic leather clutch, the new, glossy iterations are like leather’s cooler younger sibling that went vegan and didn’t tell the family until Thanksgiving day. With sustainable fashion becoming ever more mainstream, vegan leather has gone from being a niche alternative to becoming both a sustainable staple and part of the greenwashing wave. Here, we break down the pros and cons of vegan leather — and whether it’s a fashion phase or an effective way to combat climate change.
What is Vegan Leather?
Animal leather is usually made from the skin of cows, but can also be derived from the skin of pigs, sheep, snakes, horses, and more. Vegan leather, or faux leather, imitates actual leather by using synthetic materials or plant-based fibers like pineapple leaves, cactus, cork, and apple peels to get a similar consistency. However, the majority of vegan leather is made out of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU), both of which are petroleum-based plastics. But as long as the leather isn’t derived from any animal products, it can be considered vegan.
Faux Versus Real Leather
If you’ve decided on a vegan lifestyle or are interested in more eco-friendly options, faux leather offers an alternative to the standard animal hides. Real leather is made through a lengthy process in which the animal skin is heavily salted, soaked in calcium oxide, tanned, and then put through the liquoring method, which includes adding fats and oils to the leather to make it softer and stronger. If you’re familiar with real leather, you’ll be able to recognize its signature earthy scent due to the tanning process, and its breathable qualities when worn for long periods of time. The most common forms of tanning are chromium and vegetable tanning. Chromium uses chemicals to preserve the animal’s skin, and offers more water and heat resistance for the leather products it’s applied to. But this form of tanning produces chromium waste, which pollutes the neighboring waterways. Vegetable tanning avoids harmful chemicals and uses natural materials, like tree bark, in their place. But, this form of leather is generally more expensive. When properly cared for, genuine leather can last for multiple decades in either case.
In recent years, vegan leather has gotten incredibly close to feeling like the real deal. The obvious plastic-like dupes have evolved into more buttery and luxurious leather alternatives. Unfortunately, vegan leather products tend to have a lifespan of only two to five years. But, leather-like products offer a more eco-friendly option, especially for those concerned about their carbon footprint. Traditional leather relies on livestock like cattle, and industrial animal-raising contributes to deforestation and greenhouse gases. By cutting out cattle as a source of leather, fake leather seemingly provides a more sustainable and cruelty-free option. But this is where it gets a little tricky.
Vegan leather’s lifespan proves to be shorter than that of real leather, which means consumers will have to replace items made with it more often. Additionally, plastic-based vegan leather products cannot biodegrade as well as natural leather. And while both traditional and faux leather-making processes involve chemicals, PVC can release pollutants and toxic chemicals. While PU leather is less harmful than PVC, it’s still derived from fossil fuels. But ultimately, natural fibers are the best option when seeking out vegan leather.
Vegan Leather in Fashion
The fashion industry has seen a rise in alternative leather options from fish skin to pineapple leaves to cork leather. High-end fashion brands like John Galliano, Prada, and Christian Dior have dabbled in fish skin options for their products; the practice itself has roots dating back centuries to multiple Indigenous groups across the globe. Brands like Nanushka and Hugo Boss, meanwhile, have sought to use leather alternatives that are completely vegan.
Sustainable fashion aims to reduce pollution and waste in the manufacturing process while addressing overproduction and cutting down on CO2 emissions. Sustainability is a complex concept, and faux leather only plays one part in the machine of sustainable fashion. While brands like Allbirds and Sojo have been transparent in addressing their environmental impacts, other brands have participated in greenwashing, promoting products as eco-friendly to consumers without actually improving their practices.
Which One is Better?
Vegan leather made from plastic materials like PVC and PU can still be harmful to the environment. But, when made from natural materials, plant-based leathers make for great eco-friendly options. Additionally, vegan leather’s lifespan is much shorter than real leather, so consider how often you’ll be replacing this product when you do purchase it.
Real leather does lead to high carbon emissions, but there are ways of making this kind of purchase a sustainable one. Taking good care of the product over time is essential. You can also aim to purchase your next leather good as a meat byproduct with vegetable tanning, or from a producer that works with small farms.
Both forms of leather have a ways to go in terms of sustainability, but making an informed decision on your next leather purchase, whether it’s vegan or not, contributes to that environmental impact.