Photography by City of Havre de Grace
In many ways, America was at a crossroads toward the end of the eighteenth century.
It was charting its future, which included deciding the location of the country’s capital. When the first federal Congress voted on the latter in 1789, it was deadlocked, with the tiebreaking choice falling to the speaker of the house. The rest is (American) history.
The runner-up, Havre de Grace, Maryland, may have just missed out on being the country’s official seat of government. But thanks to its historical significance, quaint ambience, and ideal location at the convergence of the Susquehanna River and the Chesapeake Bay, it remains an awe-inspiring—if not under-the-radar—travel destination to this day.
© Thomas Stern, Concord Point Park
Rich in history
This wouldn’t be the first setback for this city, nor would it be the last. Through its centuries-old existence, Havre de Grace has displayed ample resilience. Leading up to the American Revolution, it was an important hub of transportation because of its strategic location—a fact also known by the British, who burned the town in 1777.
Five years later, famed French general Marquis de Lafayette, a key ally to the American cause, witnessed the view from the town’s shorefront. Struck by its beauty, he reportedly compared it to the port city of Le Havre in France. Thus, a city name was born, and Havre de Grace (pronounced HAVE-er da grace, translation: Harbor of Grace) was incorporated in 1785. In 1789, George Washington spent the night there en route to his presidential inauguration.
The relative calm didn’t last, however. Less than two decades later, Havre de Grace was devasted by the War of 1812 when, once more, British troops attacked the city, this time burning much of it to the ground after ransacking it. However, like a phoenix, it would rise again from the ashes. Over the centuries, Havre de Grace has rebuilt from the ground up while honoring its war-torn past—with the War Memorial at Millard Tydings Memorial Park and the Gold Star Families Memorial Monument at Concord Point Park being two prominent examples. In doing so, it has created a haven where visitors can both explore the beauty of the area and appreciate its history.
© Millard Tydings Memorial Park
Around the town
Havre de Grace has repeatedly been heralded as one of the best small towns, both in its state and the country. One reason is its coziness and accessibility: with a size of about six square miles, walking, biking, or driving through town is a breeze. And when you hit downtown, you can stroll through a historic district that’s on the National Register of Historic Places; in fact, there are hundreds of bygone structures to peruse throughout Havre de Grace. In general, the buildings’ architecture retains its antique charm, and many homes date back to the 1800s. Best of all, the city has made it easy to take all this history in: just follow the three-mile Lafayette Trail loop through downtown by using a map, following the abundant trail markers on the sidewalks, or downloading the Distrx app.
In addition, Havre de Grace is chock-full of museums that preserve cultural significance. A great one is its Maritime Museum, a 10,000-square-foot building that honors the area’s seafaring history and educates guests about the environment. Included in the admission price is access to the museum’s latest exhibit, which details the city’s important role in the Underground Railroad. Other museums to consider include the popular Decoy Museum, an ode to the time-honored craft of decoy making, the seasonal Lock House Museum, which explores the area’s canal history, and the Havre de Grace Colored School Museum and Cultural Center.
When it comes to shopping along these tree-lined streets, you have endless options. Go antiquing at one of the specialty stores, including an antiques mall/beer museum (seriously) set in a converted 1880s house. For a unique boutique shopping experience for the whole family, pop into Joseph’s, a family-owned department store that has been open since 1937. And if you’re a kid at heart, you’ll be wide-eyed at the sheer number of retro goodies and merchandise in Blast from the Past or JoRetro Vintage Market.
An outdoor paradise
Without a doubt, though, the biggest draw of Havre de Grace is its waterfront. Besides spectacular bay and river views and boat-filled marinas, it boasts the Havre de Grace Promenade, a three-quarter-mile-long boardwalk toward the southern end of town. The Promenade leads you on a serene tour of both the shorefront and the surrounding wooded areas, offering interesting historical, geological, and nature-focused facts about what you’re exploring along the way. Be sure to venture out on the water at the walking pier, where ten carved wooden birds of the Chesapeake Bay region welcome you to the bay.
Speaking of birds, take the time to look for the boardwalk’s animal residents—you may very well happen across wildlife such as frogs, turtles, and various bird species like orioles, bald eagles, woodpeckers, and owls. One of the informational display boards along the trail even says, “Look up! Did you see the snake?”
The Promenade also conveniently leads you by the Decoy Museum and Maritime Museum before ending at Concord Point Park, where the Concord Point Lighthouse—the state’s oldest lighthouse open to the public—has stood since 1827. Admission to the thirty-foot granite structure is free, and the climb is well worth it for the spectacular views of the water and town.
After experiencing the lighthouse, go across the street to visit the Keeper’s House Museum and gift shop, where you can soak in fascinating information about the beacon and the city’s history and grab a few souvenirs on your way out. The Concord Point Lighthouse and Keeper’s House Museum are open weekends from April to October, so make sure to visit before they close for the season.
If you truly want to feel like you’ve stepped back in time, Susquehanna State Park, located about eight miles northwest of downtown, should be on your agenda. Within the park is the twenty-three-building Steppingstone Farm Museum, an interpretive venue where you can witness authentic crafts like blacksmithing and woodworking to get an inside look at how essentials were created at the turn of the twentieth century. Between watching the demonstrations, touring the grounds, and purchasing handmade goods at the museum store, you can easily get lost in the past here for hours.
Being less than an hour north of Baltimore, thirty minutes west of Delaware, and seventy-five minutes from Philadelphia, Havre de Grace is an ideal day trip for anyone traveling through the mid-Atlantic. So step away from the hustle and bustle of the big city and immerse yourself in this scenic, enchanting American treasure.
For more info, visit explorehavredegrace.com