Pitti Uomo has just kicked off, with Milan and Paris men’s shows right behind it, and the couture collections are imminent, but nothing puts us back into the grind state of mind like the CFDA’s release of the New York Fashion Week schedule. For fall 2024 the American calendar will start at noon on February 9—yes, a little earlier than usual—and close with a 5PM showcase on February 14–yes, also a little earlier than usual.
The headlines: Peter Do will once again jumpstart NYFW with Helmut Lang, and CFDA chairman Thom Browne will return to his hometown, after a couture debut in Paris, to close the week. In between, Ludovic de Saint Sernin will stage his first-ever show outside of France here in NYC on February 11 at 8PM—showgoers will have to choose between this special event and Usher’s Super Bowl Halftime Show. “It’s always been a dream of mine to do a show in New York,” said De Saint Sernin in an interview. The Paris-based designer counts the US as his biggest DTC market. “Now feels like the right time for me to finally tend to my community there and give them my best work. I feel like it will be my most important collection since my first.”
About his return to NYFW, Browne shared: “New York will always be home. It’s important that the world sees the creativity and diversity here during New York Fashion Week.” Luar’s Raul Lopez, who closed the New York schedule for the last three seasons, is moving to February 13 at 9 PM. Whether Browne will return to Paris for his usual dates—men’s in June and ready-to-wear in September, or for another couture show in July—remains to be seen. “It has always been important for me to show my collections in New York and Paris,” said the designer. “Everyone should do what makes the most sense for them. For me it’s an opportunity to show the world on a different stage the power of American fashion.”
Câllas, the label launched in 2021 by Derek Lam’s partner, Jan-Hendrick Schlottman, is debuting on the schedule, as are Jane Wade, Meruert Tolegen, and Bishme Cromartie. Returning to the show schedule are Libertine; Coach, which celebrated Stuart Vevers’s 10th year anniversary off-schedule last season; and Interior, AnOnlyChild, and Theophilio, all three of which launched collections digitally last season. Monse, the label helmed by Oscar de la Renta’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, will stage a runway comeback, as will Delpozo, which is returning to the NYFW fold to celebrate its 50th anniversary. The Spanish brand is re-launching under new ownership with Enrique Mellado and Joaquin Trias at the helm, and the duo will host a series of small presentations on February 11 and 12.
Peter Do, the label, is off the schedule, having decamped to Paris in September—no word yet if Do will continue with this cadence. Connor McKnight, who showed digitally last NYFW, will be presenting his collection at Paris menswear on January 20. Also missing from the schedule are Ralph Lauren and Gypsy Sport, both of whom had returned to the schedule in September. Private Policy will show off-schedule on February 8, while Who Decides War is also giving Paris a try. Priscavera and Staud are downsizing to appointments, while Theory, Palomo Spain, Dion Lee, Studio 189, Colin Locascio, and Kozaburo are amongst the names that showed at NYFW during the spring 2024 season that are MIA this time around. (We’ve reached out to these labels for further information. More to come here.)